Sunday, 23 November 2014
Tuesday, 18 November 2014
The past year or so has not been kind to Lady Gaga. Broken bones, cancelled tours, major management fall outs and furiously scrutinised falling music sales.
Most crucially though has been the apparent slacking going on at the quality control department within the Haus of Gaga. Her daily fashion statements remain outlandish but lack the originality and awe-inspiring edge circa The Fame Monster. Many of her recent career choices have been related only by their haphazardness — from promoting a "flying dress" (TechHaus Volantis), to making bit-part appearances in underwhelming films, shooting music videos too controversial to ever release (watch stolen snippets of the Terry Richardson-directed 'Do What U Want' at your own discretion), agreeing to be the first artist to perform in space and making Tony Bennett her constant companion.
So, really, however frustrating the erratic Artpop is, it is actually the perfect record to encapsulate Lady Gaga's current state of play. Whilst the message of Artpop as a whole got rather lost in translation on record, when fully realised as performance piece, Gaga's manifesto of creative freedom and artistic expression as a uniting force is communicated and made real through her ArtRave live show.
Honestly, the EDM pop current she has been swept up by means her latest output has not been her most dynamic, and perhaps she knows it. Whilst the majority of Artpop's track list gets a look in on tonight's set, most songs are shortened with a chorus missing here, a verse cut out there and others simply used as interval tunes whilst Gaga changes outfit. She brings the hits too but tells anyone who has come solely to hear her past glories to, in no uncertain terms, GTFO.
The delicate digital tones of 'Artpop' make for a knowingly understated but sublime opener. 'Venus' is the standout live moment of the night. Gaga roars in tribute to her inspirational goddess of love, embodies her spirit and threatens to devour her object of desire whole. 'Mary Jane Holland' goes down as the most absurd performance piece of the night which sees Gaga dancing around with a chair balanced on her head for no reason in particular.
What the electro pomp of her newest material easily achieves is encouraging a party atmosphere amongst the audience. Dancing is the only available option. The frantic likes of 'Aura' and 'G.U.Y.' work splendidly to make it feel as though you're at the best party of your life, and Lady Gaga just so happens to be there too. Yet as much work and energy as Gaga puts into fostering a mass spirit of abandon, she too frequently slackens the pace and sacrifices her Club Kids-inspired ambience for sentimental pauses.
Anyone who says that the moments when Gaga sits down at the piano alone, stabs out some chords and belts out a couple of songs a capella is, frankly, a bore. If you need theatrics stripping back to hear that Gaga can sing and write a decent song, then you are, perhaps, a little bit simple. Yes, it is moving that ahead of 'Born This Way' Gaga reads an eloquent fan-penned letter about their mental health struggles and the solace they found in her music. Yes, it is lovely that said fan is then invited to sit beside Gaga at the piano. But did 'Born This Way' really need to be reduced to a thread-bare rendition that erases any semblance of it's 'Express Yourself'-esque empowered thrust? Similarly, Gaga's cover of 'Bang Bang (My Baby Shot Me Down)' is unquestionably strong, but unfitting for the occasion.
Whilst the set list may not have been perfect, the overall set up for ArtRave is pure genius. Many a popstar talks a big game about loving their fans and sharing a close connection, but Gaga has acted on her word by making herself more accessible than ever to the fans attending her shows. The big innovation of this tour is the stage design. Two catwalks made of Lucite plastic and a connecting bridge loom over the standing audience which allows everyone to be part of the front row. If you so wish, the option of standing beneath the see-through stage to watch Gaga hump the floor is available to you. She gets close enough to her fans that the details of her tattoos can be seen by the naked eye. She spends the night covering the vast expanse of the stage which renders elongated dance routines obsolete, but it seems like a worthwhile sacrifice for the sake of facetime with the crowd. The feel-good factor this interaction brings cannot be underestimated in the soulless game of arena pop.
Gaga in herself seems like a different person to the one of her previous tours. Everything about her now seems more natural and comfortable. Her focus is on enjoying her performance rather than making it and herself fit pop's archetypal clean-cut mould. I mean, how many pop stars would sacrifice their calorie counting ways to brazenly demand a bottle of beer be delivered to the stage before taking an almighty chug? How many other image-obsessives would execute an onstage outfit change in full view of their audience? Or tear the wig from their head and swing it through the air?
The fact that Gaga has reached this new level of honesty as a performer without sacrificing any of her alluring artifice is quite astonishing. The costumes for this tour are Gaga's de rigueur level of surreal couture; a Versace-designed crystyal body suit embellished with a Jeff Koons reflective sphere upon the chest and a weighty pair of wings, a bejewelled seashell bra and floral thong, a latex leotard with sprawling tentacles, wigs of gravity defying height and another of such silken length it trails behind her like the train of a wedding dress (all the while, the backing dancers looking like they've had to make do with digging through the sale racks of Ann Summers and American Apparel). Yes, the outfits are still out of this world but Gaga has come to both accept and exploit the fact that she and all her accoutrements are just a part of experience that now surrounds her.
Finishing the night with a rousing and celebratory 'Gyspy' is just as fitting as the restrained opening of the night. But the fact that Gaga only rewards herself with a single song encore is far too modest for a star of her stature and the scale of the show. Gaga has every right to milk her much-loved applause after pulling off the most innovative pop concert of the year.
Written for Rock's Backpages
Friday, 14 November 2014
Wednesday, 12 November 2014
Monday, 3 November 2014
Company, XXL, Vibe… It’s been a dismal month of closures in the world of magazine publishing. As we bid farewell to those three mags, it got us thinking about the other titles we wish we could still pick up from our local newsagents…
Lo-fi, indie fashion zine Cheap Date was the ultimate in girly DIY mags. Founded in 1996 by Bay Garnett and Kira Joliffe, Cheap Date specialized in thrift store shopping (before it became “a thing”) and had cover and shoot girls like Liv Tyler, Sophie Dahl and Karen Elson. Vogue’s Garnett indicated in a 2012 interview that she hoped to revive Cheap Date… We’re waiting Bay!
As the vital stepping stone between cute girl mags that came with free bubblegum and posters of kittens and the proper grown up monthly glossies, Elle Girl UK’s closure after just four years came way too soon. Yes, Peaches Geldof’s little rich girl column was totally unrelatable and no, we couldn’t afford any of the clothes in the fashion editorials, but we loved poring over the articles and pinning the pictures on our bedroom walls.
A magazine exclusively about and targeted at groupies? Umm, yes please! Star was a scandalous, short-lived title aimed at teenage girls which hit the shelves in 1973 and was forced out of publication after five months. Cover stories included the likes of “Are You Ready For An Older Boy?” and “Is One Boy Really Enough?” Actually, we’re surprised Star lasted as long as it did!
“The only official Girl Power magazine”, Spice was the Spice Girls’ impressively glossy and in-depth fanclub offering. It ran for just eight issues, but how glorious those eight issues were. By far the best bit of the mag was the Agony Aunt page where the Spice Girls would help fans with all kinds of personal issues. One torn reader who was trying to decide whether or not to become a nun and dedicate her life to God was told by Posh Spice not to because of the outfit…
If Lisa Simson approves of it, then we want it! ‘Nuff said. (However, it was Non-Threatening Boys magazine that lead to her brief addiction to the 555-Corey hotline…)
Written for MY FLASH TRASH
Friday, 31 October 2014
Happy Halloween etc.
I compiled a list of supernatural-themed musical treats for My Flash Trash.
Take a listen HERE (if you dare etc).
Wednesday, 29 October 2014
I interviewed New York's most-wanted hair colourist for My Flash Trash
We reached out to Aura Friedman – the hottest hair colourist in all of NYC – to talk about must-have products, celebrity clients and lock shocks…
How did you get started in the industry?
I randomly started working in a salon mid-summer at 15 and it stuck.
Who did you wish you could have hair like when you were a teenager?
I was into punk and hardcore, I wanted it to be every colour but I stuck with blood red.
Any personal hair disasters you don’t mind sharing with us?
My aunt took me to her "beauty parlour" and I walked out with a bowl cut… I had wavy hair.
What’s your most requested service?
Girls in London are still obsessed with the ombré look… What should we be doing with our hair to stay ahead of the crowd?
Just express yourself!
You’ve coloured so many celebrities – was there any one who you particularly enjoyed working with?
It was a lot of fun to give Anna Paquin a colour she had been dreaming of having since she was thirteen.
You’ve worked with Sky Ferreira a number of times. What is it about her hair that makes it look so covetable all the time?
I started colouring Sky when she was just 17, the day I made her platinum I watched her skin tone change and face brighten up. It was magic.
If you could transform anyone’s hair, who would it be and what would you do?
Dakota Fanning, powdery pink beige blonde, very ‘60's.
Tell us, what is the product, without question, every girl should own…
Nexxus Pre Wash Primer. You put on your hair before washing your hair. It helps seal in colour vibrancy.
You have a long list of honours to your name. Is there a particular title or project you are most proud of?
I recently creative directed a few projects: The model transformation videos, they are featured on my YouTube channel, AuraColorist YouTube
Which do you prefer – working in-salon at Sally Hershberger, working on editorials or backstage at fashion week?
I love it all. I've been coming up with concepts and working with some of the most talented people in the industry, this I feel forever grateful for.
Do you have any top tips for girls who dream of following in your footsteps?
Dream big, you can manifest it all with hard work. Patience is a virtue.
Tuesday, 21 October 2014
To mark the recommencement of Gwen Stefani’s solo career (if you haven’t checked out her new single ‘Baby Don’t Lie’ yet, where have you been?) let’s all remember the vital lifestyle lessons this couture rock goddess has taught us so far…
The definition of Harajuku (“Super cute in Japanese!” – ‘Harajuku Girls’)
How to style out a pair of hoop earrings
That thou shalt not be a Hollaback Girl
How to live it up when you’re a Rich Girl (a.k.a. pay day)
How to look flashy
How to look trashy
How to make a chunky chain necklace look cute
How to rock knuckle-dusters
What a killer set of abs look like
That life is all about being brave and taking risks
How to wear statement necklaces
And - above all - how to spell bananas
Get Gwen's look!